Ulting Beez

Plan Bee

2011-02-16T03:10:00.000-08:00

Support the Bee Campaign

2011-02-16T03:03:00.001-08:00

To lobby the Government to do more and provide funds for research into Colony Collapse Disorder and why the number of honey bees are declining in the UK.

Bees are dying in their Millions - what do we do?

2011-02-16T03:01:00.001-08:00

Bees are dying in their millions. Martha Kearney, BBC 4, explores this worrying phenomenon.

It is an ecological crisis that threatens to bring global agriculture to a standstill. Introduced by Martha Kearney, this documentary explores the reasons behind the decline of bee colonies across the globe, investigating what might be at the root of this devastation. Honey bees are the number one insect pollinator on the planet, responsible for the production of over 90 crops. Apples, berries, cucumbers, nuts, cabbages and even cotton will struggle to be produced if bee colonies continue to decline at the current rate. Empty hives have been reported from as far afield as Taipei and Tennessee.

In England, the matter has caused beekeepers to march on parliament to call on the government to fund research into what they say is potentially a bigger threat to humanity than the current financial crisis. Investigating the problem from a global perspective, the programme makers travel from the farm belt of California to the flatlands of East Anglia to the outback of Australia. They talk to the beekeepers whose livelihoods are threatened by colony collapse disorder, the scientists entrusted with solving the problem, and the Australian beekeepers who are making a fortune replacing the planet's dying bees. They also look at some of the possible reasons for the declining numbers - is it down to a bee plague, pesticides, malnutrition, or is the answer something even more frightening?

Go to BBC4 Bees are Dying in their Millions to watch this interesting and worrying documentary.

In a contrasting documentary, by the same author, Orlando Clark is an urban beekeeper, he keeps his bees in various locations around the city of London, from Brixton to King's Cross. His bee losses have been no higher in the last few years than they have been in any winter. In fact, last winter was better than ever before. Ironically in the city, there seems to be more and cleaner food for the bees to eat. London and a lot of urban environments are actually quite green, with an abundance of parks and gardens dotted all around. The diversity of the plants you have in the urban environment may help the bees, as there is almost always something in bloom all year round. In the countryside, particularly with modern agricultural practices, you have whole swathes of land supporting just one crop, which may bloom for only 2-3 weeks. The city is probably one of the best locations to keep bees at the moment, as there is plenty of forage for them and they don't have all the problems they have in the countryside with insecticide and pesticides being sprayed on them and their food.

Go to Urban Beekeeping

Pollen Chart - Book

2011-02-15T14:46:00.001-08:00

Pocket Pollen Colour Guide

A handy guide to aid in the identification of pollen loads of the honey bee.
Showing 72 examples.
Northern Bee Books
Publishers of The Beekeepers Annual & Beekeepers Quarterly
Stockest of books for beekeepers
Scout Bottom Farm
Mytholmroyd
Hebden Bridge HX7 5JS (UK)

Tel +44 (0) 1422 882751
Fax +44 (0) 1422 886157

£1.50 UK Post Paid Add to Cart
NBB113 Hardy, Stephen Pocket Pollen Colour Guide

Northern Bee Books - Go back - Beedata Home

Pollen Chart

2011-02-15T14:43:00.000-08:00

Common name	Latin name Blooming months Pollen color
Maple	Acer spp.	Feb - Apr	light yellow	feral	fair
Manitoba Maple (Box elder)	Acer negundo	Feb - Apr	light olive	feral	good
Norway maple	Acer platanoides	Apr - May	yellow green, olive	feral	fair
Red Maple	Acer rubrum	Mar - Apr	grey brown	feral
Grey Alder	Alnus incana	Feb - Apr	brownish yellow	feral
American Chestnut	Castanea dentata	May - Jun		mostly ornamental
American Hazel	Corylus americana	Mar - Apr	light green	feral and ornamental	fair/good
Sweet Chestnut	Castanea sativa	May		feral	good
Common Hackberry	Celtis occidentalis	Apr - May		feral
Flowering Quince	Chaenomeles japonica, Chaenomeles lagenaria, Chaenomeles speciosa 'Nivalis', Chaenomeles x superba	Apr - May		feral	good
Hawthorn	Crataegus spp.	Apr - May	yellow brown	feral	fair
White Ash	Fraxinus americana	Apr - May
Honey Locust	Gleditsia triancanthos	May - Jun		feral
American holly	Ilex opaca	Apr - Jun		feral
Walnut	Juglans spp.	Apr - May		cultivated	fair
Tulip-tree	Lirodendron tulipifera	May - Jun		feral and ornamental	good
Crab Apple	Malus spp.	Mar - Jun	light olive	ornamental
Apple	Malus domestica, Malus sylvestris	Apr - May	yellow white	cultivated and ornamental	very good
American Sycamore	Platanus occidentalis	Apr - May	light olive	feral
Plum	Prunus spp.	Apr - May	light grey, grey	ornamental and cultivated
Almond	Prunus amygdalus	Feb	light brown to brown pollen - not considered a good pollen source but bees are the primary pollinator	cultivated mostly in California	fair
Wild Cherry	Prunus avium	Apr - May	yellow brown, light brown	feral	very good
Cherry Plum	Prunus cerasifera		light brown to brown	feral	fair
Sour Cherry	Prunus cerasus	Apr - May	dark yellow	ornamental and cultivated	very good
Peach	Prunus persica	Apr - May	redish yellow	ornamental and cultivated	good
Black Cherry	Prunus serotina	Apr - May		feral	minor
Blackthorn	Prunus spinosa			feral	good
Pear	Pyrus communis	Apr - May	red yellow	ornamental and cultivated	good
Oak	Quercus spp.	May		feral
Oak	Quercus robur, Quercus pedunculata	May	light olive	feral	minor
Black Locust	Robinia pseudoacacia	May - Jun		feral
Blackberry	Rubus spp.	May - Jun	light grey	feral and cultivated	excellant
Raspberry	Rubus idaeus	May - Jun		feral and cultivated	good
Willow	Salix spp.	Feb - Apr	lemon	feral	good
White Willow	Salix alba			feral	good
Goat Willow	Salix caprea	Mar - Apr		feral	very good
Violet Willow	Salix daphnoides	Mar - Apr		feral	very good
Pussy Willow	Salix discolor	Mar - Apr		feral and ornamental
Basket Willow	Salix purpurea	Mar - Apr		feral	very good
Silky leaf osier, Smith's Willow	Salix x smithiana	Apr - May			very good
American mountain ash	Sorbus americana	May-Jun		feral
American Elm	Ulmus americana	Feb - Apr	light grey	feral
Winged Elm	Ulmus alata	Feb - Mar	pale yellow	feral	good
Europea field elm	Ulmus americana			feral	good

This pollen chart was originally by www.beesource.com
and
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pollen_source

Mareks disease in Chickens

2011-02-04T08:21:00.001-08:00

Marek's disease

The virus responsible for Marek's disease is thought to be responsible for greater mortality in chickens than any other disease. Every flock, except for those maintained under strict pathogen-free conditions, can be assumed to be infected. Flocks that do not show any symptoms may still be infected. Stress may weaken the immune systems and result in an outbreak of this disease. Although symptoms may not be apparent, there may be a reduced growth rate and a decrease in egg production.
The virus is concentrated in the feather follicles and shed in sloughed skin and feather cells. It has a long survival time and viable virus can be isolated from houses that have not been occupied for many months. Transmission is by aerosols containing infected dust. Younger birds are most susceptible to infection.
There is no treatment for Marek's disease. The main method of control is by vaccination of day-old chickens as a subcutaneous injection. Results are improved by strict sanitation to reduce or delay exposure and also by breeding for genetic resistance.
Marek's disease may produce a variety of clinical responses: visceral, neural, ocular, skin or combinations of these.

	Visceral	Marek's of the visceral type is characterized by widespread involvement with lesions commonly seen in gonads, liver, spleen, kidney and occasionally heart, lungs and muscles. The disease is often acute, with apparently healthy birds dying very rapidly with massive internal tumours.
	Neural	The neural type is characterised by progressive paralysis of the wings, legs and neck. Loss of body weight, anaemia, laboured breathing and diarrhoea are common symptoms.
	Ocular	Ocular leukosis (gray-eye) is usually seen in early maturity. Morbidity and mortality are usually low but may approach twenty-five percent in some flocks. It is characterized by the spotty depigmentation or diffuse graying of the iris in the eye. The pupil develops an irregular shape and fails to react to light. Emaciation diarrhoea and death follow.
	Skin	Skin leukosis produces the most severe losses in intensively reared broilers, as a result of carcasses being condemned at the processing stage. Enlargement of the feather follicles due to accumulations of lymphocytes is the typical lesion. This is potentially the most infective version of Marek's because it is produced around the feather follicles and is shed with the skin particles and with feathers.

Wax

2010-10-30T00:37:00.000-07:00

Wax
Two sauspans - tea strainers - one to other while melting. Alum Or ss
pans
Layer of rain water - help settle detritus heat gently stir
Powder wax dye
Pour into moulds / tubs with tapered sides. Water again to grab waste
& then tip out.
Dust , pollen, propolis, other debris.
Be patient!
Solar wax extractor - base sheet aluminum/wooden frame plus double
glazed top. Wax runs down to collect at bottom of slope. Angled
towards sun.

Wax discolueres with constant heat - choc colour. Have drip tray in
shade!

Candle moulds.

Latex from modle shop painted on - use for up to 10 then deteriate.

Glass mould - very hot tea towelk wrap round mould - should come out.

Beware purchased moulds - may have bee made for parafin wax . Bee's
wax needs thicket wick. Red: zinc wick from Thornes.

Silicon spray in mould or Pyrex bowl & washing up liquid. Check bowl
is totally smooth & fault free. One drop of inscrnted wu liquid - rub
with finger around surface until dry.

Or stainless steel bowl - no lubrication needed.

Silicon white moulds best. Rubberbnd around split but needs surround
cut from plastic bottle thereby making stand for bottim of wick to
stand free. Top - use peg to hold wick square.

Use model putti or blutac to seal bottom of wick hole.

Use pet food tin - form spout with pliers and fix handle to interior

Flatten wick at bottom of mould to reduce leakage.

Candle wick is plaited not twisted like string so burns better.

Or dip candle wick in hot was before placing in roll or candle mould.
Stifness helps formation.

Leave 20 mind plus in mould before unwrap.

Martin@Newton.com

Sent from My iPod

Fw: Fw: If I could turn back time..............................

2010-10-18T15:24:00.000-07:00

WHY LIFE WAS SO GREAT IN THE 60's

Reminder regarding the rules about pruning trees within a CONSERVATION AREA - Langford and Ulting Parish's

2010-10-14T07:59:00.001-07:00

Reminder

regarding the rules about pruning trees within a CONSERVATION AREA

Langford and Ulting Parish's

In a Conservation Area, any works to trees measuring 75mm or over diameter at 1.5m from the ground require 6 weeks prior notification to us before they are carried out, we would then consult the Parish/Town council concerned for their comments.

Rules regarding trees and development depend largely on what conditions have been applied to the planning permission. If there are trees on site to be retained we always refer developers to BS5837:2005 'Trees in Relation to Construction - Recommendations' which is the current British standard they are required to follow. In addition to this, you should know that Planning permission over-rides tree protection by TPO or conservation area. Developers are allowed to remove or prune any tree that is in the way of them carrying out works that have planning permission.

Woodland at a 250 Year peak due to tax breaks

2010-10-07T06:39:00.001-07:00

British woodland has returned to the levels of the 1750s with tree cover having more than doubled since the end of the First World War, a United Nations report has shown.

Woodland in Britain now stands at 11,200 square miles, 11.8% of the total land area.

The growth, attributed in part to the boom because of tax breaks, could even reach the 15% of woodland recorded in England by the Doomsday Book in 1086!

Varroa Report 1997 - Denmark

2010-08-30T11:56:00.000-07:00

The purpose of this report is to describe the research work that is being
done by the Danish Federal Beekeeper association in co-operation with
beekeepers from all over Denmark. Some of the investigations are being done
in co-operation with the project group, "Beekeeping", which is the
authoritative state organ for bee diseases, to which reports of e.g. AFB
must be reported.

The research is done to produce results for the benefit of practical
beekeeping. The results are put into guides. These guides are used by
consultants and Varroa-inspectors at meetings and courses given at local
beekeeper associations and for articles in Tidskrift for Biavl ( The Danish
beekeeper association magazine).

Co-operation with the Hosts of the research ensure that tests are done under
actual field conditions. A special committee, established by the head of
the Danish Beekeeping Federation, is responsible for the research.
Frequently meetings are held with this group; proposals are submitted for
approval and ideas and plans are discussed. There is co-operation with
consultants and researchers from the other Nordic counties and Lithuania.
Ideas and practical field research methods in the use of ecological Varroa
treatment methods are exchanged.

The report comprises the following items :

Nosema tests

Test of production queens
Long-time test of formic acid
   - free formic acid
   - krämer plates
Test of formic acid evaporation tools
   -universal tools
    -Burmeister

    - Apidea- Nassenheider
oxalic acid test
    - wintering bee strength
    - spring test
    - repeated treatments through the season
    - autumn treatment
    - aftercare after other treatments
queen imprisonment and formic acid treatment of catch frames.

A Discussion

In the Varroa tests there have been asked for a more precise measure of the effectiveness of the various methods and the effectiveness of the combination of the methods. The Main part of the tests have more been pointing against testing of methods to see how the bees and the effect of method’s have worked for a number of years .It is not possible in the very same test to make exact measure of the effect of the methods and at the same time look at how the method’s are working in the practical beekeeping. A more exact measure of the effect of the method’s will involve, that after the test treatment there should bee a treatment with pesticide to be able to calculate the percentage effect of the test treatment.

Because the test Host , With whom is co-operated, didn’t want to risk pesticide rest in material and products it has until now not been possible to make aftercare with pesticides like Fluvalinate and Apistan. In many test is the treatments duplicated or there have been done an aftercare with lactic acid or oxalic acid, and there by is produced numbers for the effectiveness of the method’s.

At a final pesticide treatment it is not always sure that all the rest mites are killed.

Practical experience shows that re-invasion and low activity in the bee families late at the season can lead to

Wrong conclusions.

Final will an eventual resistance development could blur the real result. In the part of the beekeeping that still want to develop ecological Varroa treatment method’s it must also get highest priority to develop method’s that over years keeps the varroa pressure at a level , Where it will not harm the bee-families.

NOSEMATEST

In the early spring the test hosts are asked to take 60 live bees from hives involved in the different tests. These bees are killed by freezing and are analysed by Sandagergård at Vejle for Nosema. The analysis is done in the
following way :

no spores, no Infection;
0-0,5 mill. spores a bee, very weak infection;
0,5-2 mill. spores a bee, weak infection;

2-5 mill. spores a bee, strong infection;
more than 5 mill. spores a bee, very strong infection.

The results from the last nine years of testing are shown in the Graph
below. The numbers of samples taken are 150-250 a Year. In 1997, 182 samples
were taken.

Taken by testing apiaries from all Denmark. The stress from nosema in 1997 is not that strong as in 1996

Quality control of breading queens

This arrangement is offered to queen breeders who want to get there pure Mated queens judged at three agreed visits in the season.

The queens are judged for Swarming, Steadiness and agressivity.

The queens have before the judgement

carried out a whole production season

In the first production year the queenbreeders have selected pure mated sister series. The succession is described as a row of queens and the added Drone genetic in each generation.

The queenbreeders judgement and measure of crop put together with the results of a nosema-test the spring where the queens participate in the quality control , the basic data, which can be read in the queen control report. To give the breeding material a high security level of disease tolerance the agreement is expanded in a way that by second visit is agreed a chalky brood test of sealed drone brood. And at the third visit a cleaning test of freeze killed sealed worker brood.

In the quality report can be read more about the results of those test. 10 queenbreeders have in 1997 participated with a total of 39 breading

TEST BEEYARDS

Production queens, which is sold are tested by 10 different test hosts. Each Host are wintering in a queen from each team, so that there will be wintering in 10 beeyard with equal combining of queens. The Queen-breeder gives extra four queens for replacement of those queens that get lost at the introduction of the new queen in the late summer the Year before the test Year. The Hosts judge the swarming tendency the aggressivity, the calmness. The honey crop is measured and nosema test is done.

The test gives a full impression of the crop possibilities and other use factors by using production queens bought at skilled queenbreeders.

The results of the tests 1997 can be read in Tidsskrift for Biavl issue 1 1998 and in the report about quality control of breading queens.

DRIP TREATMENT WITH OXAL ACID-/SUCKER DISSOLUTION IN THE SPRING

As supplement to Drone brood removal, Queen imprisonment, Formic acid, lactic acid and oxalic acid treatment done by spraying in the autumn , is a Varroa treatment test ,where oxalic acid are given to the bees in a sucker dilution in 1997 The interest for this method is arises from reports from Germany and Italy . From Sweden (Ingemar Fries) is reported damage on bee families treated by spraying in the autumn. Damages is also seen in Denmark where doses used on each frame are mis-calculated, more than 3-4 ml 3% oxalic acid dilution each Frame side (12x10 frame measure) in oxalic acid treatment or late treatment in autumn (after the mid of October). There is though good experience with one spray , where the above mentioned dose and conditions are kept. In some of the tests has the use of spraying with oxalic acid been an aftercare to the use of formic acid. There have not in those tests or in many beefamilies in practice been winter looses of bee families or lowered spring development that could bee tracked to the use of oxalic acid. The method of giving oxalic acid in a sucker dilution can give a significant l lightening of the burden of workload in opposite to the spraying method because the treatment time is about half a minute a beehive and the frames has not to be taken out of the hive. In tests of this Year is made a mix of 1 kg Sucker, 1 l water and 100 gram oxalic acid . From this mixture is given 3-3½ ml each frame gate. The mixed quantity is equal to treatment of about 60 families. The doses are given directly into the frame gates in a thin jet from a onetime injector. See the Frontpage picture. The method is called “Dripping” In the late summer 1996 is created some nucs which are sprayed 3 times during their build up. Those nucs have surrendered the winter will full satisfaction. In autumn 1997 is wintered a lot of beefamilies which are dripped one or two times with oxalic acid and a part which are

Spring dripping

With oxalic acid in three different beeyards. About the half of the families was dripped while the rest is control families.

sprayed with oxalic acid one time. Also in 1997 is made nucs which are dripped with oxalic acid 3 times and treated with formic acid one time. Tests are also done at three test hosts in the early spring with spring treatment with the dripping method before the was brood of importance. As seen from the graph below , the method had a good effect. In single queenless beefamilies and by repeated treatments in one of the beeyards it has shown that the method has no effect of importance after the families has started to produce sealed brood. The tests has not in 1997 shown with sufficient certainty if the bees can stand the treatment. But a graph showing the number of frames with bees in the hives in spring 1998 should give a clue.

OXCAL ACID – DRIPNING OR SPRAYING – ONE OR TWO TIMES

At a beekeeper at Sealand is oxalic acid used as aftercare with use of spray and drip after formic acid treatment in 3 beeyards with normal production families. The plan was carried out as follows:

Beeyard 1: Spray one or two times with one week interval

Beeyard 2: Spraying one time or dip one time.

Beeyard 3: Drip one or two times with 10 days interval.

Average results are seen from the graph below.

As seen from the Graph there have not been the same amount of mites in each beeyard. The beefamilies which have got second treatment in beeyard 1 and 3 is partly chosen between the families which have the most dropdown at the first treatment. The results shows that treatment with formic acid in start of august with krämerplates under this conditions should be followed up with a later aftercare. The test cam primarily be used to monitor eventually differences in wintering of the beefamilies and the spring development. Honey samples are taken but not yet analysed.

Test in 3

Different beeyards with comparison be-tween spraying and drip of oxalic acid.

Drip with oxalic acid has shown a good result. Only a few mites are counted by the control treatments

At a beekeeper on Djursland is oxalic acid used in the following ways:

Comparison between Drip and Spray at different times after Honey harvest.

Split of beefamilies –Drip/or spray to times plus aftercare with krämerplates.

The Graph show the result from 6 beeyards

Drip with oxalic acid have shown a good result

Only a few mites drops down at control treat-ments.

Comparison between Drip and Spray at different times after honey harvest

In another beeyard on Djursland is treated with 5 times drip with five days between each drip from end of august. The bee strength was in connection with the fourth and fifth drip reduced from 10 framegates to 5 to 6 framegates The following Graph shows the results of the test.

Five times dripping with oxalic acid in a row during the brood rearing period didn’t give a satisfaction result

There can not be seen a connection in the unexpected and drastically drop in bee strength in proposition to the number of Varroa mites in the individual bee families. In several bee families only a few mites are present and the drop in bees strength has been so and so equal in the bee families. So what happened is more like poison damaged du to the treatment. By inspection of single families in January 1998 they looked normal but small.

To investigate eventually damaged on ability to winter and the spring development is in autumn 1997 wintered more beeyards where oxalic acid is used by dripping one or two times as only treatment or as supplemental treatment (Without counting of drop down mites).

---------------------------------------------

Six beefamilies dripped three times with oxalic acid/sucker dilution in autumn 1997

At another beekeeper on Djursland is dripped three times with oxalic acid after heather honey harvest. The results are shown in the following graph. This treatment shows likewise other tests a high level of efficiency and because the families was practical free of brood by second and the third drip treatment the families was likely wintered in with very few Varroa mites. The over wintering and spring development will be discussed in next years test report

Varroa treatment and production of small families

At a beekeeper in Thy is wintered in 5 groups small families with 2 x 10 small families in

each group. The small Families is treated against Varroa with oxalic acid after the following plan :

Group 1:

Mated queens

1,5 litre young bees

Group a: Sprayed 2 times with 5 days interval.

Group b: Dripped times with 5 days interval.

Group 2:

Mated queens

1,5 litre young bees.

1 sealed brood frame

Group a: Sprayed 2 times with 5 days interval.

Group b: Dripped times with 5 days interval.

Group 3:

Mated queens

1 sealed brood frame

1 litre young bees.

Group a: brood frame treated in closed super with 2 x 25 ml 85% formic acid for one houer

The bees are sprayed 2 times with 5 days interval.

Group b: The bees are sprayed 2 times with 5 days interval.

Group 4:

Mated queens

1 sealed brood frame

1 litre young bees.

Group a: Sprayed 2 times with 5 days interval.

Group b: Dripped times with 10 days interval.

Group 5:

Mated queens

1,5 litre young bees.

1 sealed brood frame

Group a: Dripped 2times

Group b: Dripped 4 times.

Because of few mites in the families there have not been particularly big dropdown after the treatments. And it has not been possible to note big differences between the treatments. It might be possible that the test has influence on the over wintering of the small families.

-----------------------------------------------------

Two apiaries near Tjele has been tested using 60% Formic acid 2 x 4 days. 2ml formic acid is applied on each comb gate with bees. It is the second year the test has been done in the two bee-yards. The purpose of the test is to follow the effect of the treatment through more than one year. the results for the last two seasons are shown in the following graph. In beeyard #1 mite fall is less in 1996 than in 1997. In apiary #2 the mite fall has been the same for both years. The test hosts have the opinion that there was a heavy re infestation in apiary #2 by reason of untreated nearby colonies. The numbers of Varroa mites in the beeyard has no significant influence on the bees.

Double

Formic acid

treatment

(2 x 4 x 2

ml Formic acid each.

frame).

The duration of the test is over two Years

An apiary near Rønnede is on the second year of testing using double Krämer plates. The results from 1997 are shown in the lower Graph. The number of arroa mites is still very low.

Double Krämerplate

treatment. The small columns are natural Varroa dropdown

TEST OF DIFFERENT FORMIC ACID EVAPORATORS

Different formic acid evaporators were tested in Thy. Each evaporator was tested in 2 to four families so the averages must be treated with caution, because in many cases there was a large variation in. The test is also not large enough to draw firm conclusions between the different evaporators. The dropdown during and after the tests suggest that the effect on Varroa was moderate and with a full kill under the control treatment. All evaporators were tested in a evaporation chamber on the colonies in trough hives. The evaporation chamber was covered with plastic and jute sacks.

The tests were done after the heather honey harvest from 27 September to 5. October 1997 and all colonies covered10 frames. 85% formic acid was used in all the evaporators. No queens were lost in any of the 13 colonies. As well as the results of the tests, the advantages and disadvantage of using the different evaporators is discussed.

Nassenheider:

In the horizontal layout (The evaporator is placed on an absorbent cloth over the frames) there is a risk, that the evaporator will overturn. It can not be transported when filled with acid. Further directions are needed about the ratio between the evapoaration chamber and the size of wick. The evaporation was the highest of the tested types.

Liebefelder evaporator:

Easy to fill and to transport when filled. It is easy to adjust and can not be overturned. It is not certain if the wick must be changed every year or if it can last for several years.

Apidea evaporator:

Same comments as for the Libefilder evaporator.

Universal evaporator:

Easy to fill and can be transported when filled. The lit is tight fitting and so it can be stored filled for a longer time. It is not certain if it is necessary to change the gravel with each use. The evaporator was tested with the openings upward. It is possible the result might have been different if the openings were placed facing the bees. The holes were easy to regulate, but it would be desirable to have more instruction about how open the holes should be. Similarly there is uncertainty about cleaning and refilling.

Krämerplates:

Practice is needed to fill with the acid. They can be transported when full. They are difficult to adjust optimally (making the correct numbers of holes according to the conditions). They are cheap.

Purchasing :

Currently only Krämerplates and the Nassenheider evaporator can be bought in Denmark.

Universal fordamper

Type of evaporator	Average evaporation a day	Average drop down of mites 14 days	Average drop down with one after treatment by 15% lactic acid the 18/10 1997
Nassenheider horizontal	18,3	515	20
Libefelder evaporator	9,7	159	3
Apidea	8,5	72	3
Universal evaporator	7,7	87	5
Krämerplates	10,9	149	5

HOMEMADE FORMIC ACID EVAPORATOR AND AFTERCARE

An evaporator was tested by a beekeeper near Juelsminde for two years consecutively. In 1996 the test was controlled by doing an after-treatment with lactic acid and oxalic acid. The effect of the treatment with formic acid this year (17/08 and 03/09 1997) showed that the colonies had significantly less mites than in the year before.

By the after-treatment with lactic acid showed a quite considerable drop down of mites and the bees was re-treated

Test with home-made evaporator. By control aftercare with use of lactic acid a possible re-invasion of mites showed up.

At the second aftercare the families vas divided in two groups. The one half was retreated with lactic acid and the other was treated with oxalic acid. Further more five beefamilies which earlier was dripped with 2-3 times with oxalic acid was sprayed with lactic acid. Result of the test is shown in the following graph. The very high dropdown showing up by the aftercare is very surprising on the background of the relative low dropdown after the formic acid treatment. In mid January we got a letter from the test host that very well explained the reason

Home constructed formic acid vaporator.

Part of the letter is shown here.

At Christmas time I was visiting an elderly beekeeper (87 years old) to speak with him about the varroa situation at he’s bees. I got my worst presentiments fulfilled. He has not at any time treated against Varroa and did hardly not know what varroa was about and was sure of that he had none. It must be pointed out that the distance between he’s and mine hives is about 500 metres. As the conversion went on he suddenly asked me if I thought that the reason that all he’s bees has abandoned their hives and was flown away was because of the Varroa. Now he had only one left. He had had eleven beefamilies at the start of the year, and now there was only one left. That means that all he’s bees has flown to my place with all their hanging on varroa and diseases etc. All the bees has run away late August and in September. They had abandoned both brood and feed, the last of he’s families would probably dies out in the winter and the man said that he would stop beekeeping and not have bees again, and that might be god enough.

With such a beekeeper in the neighbourhood is it not easy to do a varroa fight because to make satisfying varroa treatment in August finding a few mites and think that it is controlled and then get so big a re-invasion in Sep-tember-October is not very nice. It strengthen the conviction that the late varroa treatment in October is very necessary.

Test with home-made vaporator. By control aftercare with use of lactic acid a possible re-invasion of mites showed up.

CLEANING ABILITY

To improve the disease handling and maybe the varroa tolerance is among queen breeders an interest for a test of the cleaning ability in the bee family.

It has been discussed if there in the test should be used freeze killed brood or a piece of sealed brood which is damaged by needle stick through the cell covering. By freeze test is observed how big a part of 100 freeze killed cells is cleaned out after three days. By the needle test method is observed how many of 50 needle harmed cells are cleaned out after 12 hours. For the second year in a row is in two beeyards at Djursland made freeze tests in the same beefamilies in two beeyards. In 1998 is the freeze test second and third time been compared to the needle test. In 1997 is the freeze test done in 22 beefamilies. In four beefamilies is the needle test duplicated three times in conjunction with second and the third freeze test. In the graph that follows is the distribution of the freeze test on the three test rounds. At the test mid August is the results from last year confirmed, that bees clean out better late in the season than early in the season. In the overview on the next is the result from the cleaning out test put together with the cleaning out test of the needle method. At the freeze test is used the grades which is used in the breeding work and with the needle is calculated percent of cleaned out cells of 50 cells. If the results of the needle test is converted to grades the grades are limited to 2,3 and 4. hereby attains less variation than by using grades. 53 percent of the needle test is equal to the grade 3 (cleaned out 20-80 percent) When the needle test is tried out three times at the same time in the same beefamilies are big differences on the cleaning out ability for two of the four beefamilies seen where this is tested. When the test methods is compared it shows that beefamilies clean out freeze killed and needle killed brood very differently

Freeze killing. A stanley knife is used to cut out a rhombi which cover 100 cells with brood of same age. The comb piece is put into the freezer for 24 hours and is then put back in from where it was taken.

The clean out of the dead brood is controlled after 3 days and nights

By the needle killing method is 50 cells with sealed brood killed with a thin needle.. Here is controlled how many needle harmed cells the bees has cleaned out after 12 hours

Comparison between the freeze test method and the needle test method

By the freeze test is the grades used in the breading work used and by the needle test is the percent of cleaned out cells of 50 used.,

Hive. Freeze test grade for cleaning out cleaning out percent needle test

4/6 7/6 26/7 27/7 16/8 19/8 29/7 29/7 29/7 19/8 19/8 19/8

QUEEN IMPRISONMENT

A beekeeper at Aarhus has done a test using Queen imprisonment with vertical queen excluder in Readan hives (Plastic hives). The queen imprisonment is done in second super with queen excluder on top and button of the super. A vertical queen excluder has limited the space for the queen to two frames. Each duration of the imprisonment has been 9 days. The first imprisonment that started 17/7 has showed that only 8 of the 24 queens started laying eggs because new wax was used. At the second and third imprisonment all 24 queens was laying eggs, when partial build out combs was used. 18 days after the start was treated with formic acid for one hour in a closed super without bees. 2 x 25 ml 85% formic acid over and under the frames. At second and third treatment the combs was given back to the families. The time used taking care of the bees are accurate registered, and the time used
extra is less than 10 minutes a family com-

Pared to the families normal treated with formic acid. The main part of this extra time was used in waiting for the formic acid treatment of the catch frames. By the treatment with oxalic acid in mid October is counted mites in eight of the 24 beefamilies, and the drop down was an average of 92 mites, which is the same level as beefamilies
that instead off queen imprisonment were treated normal with formic acid.

END OF REPORT

Liquid Gold extraction

2010-08-30T08:45:00.000-07:00

Today we extracted 12 frames of honey from Wonderland.

Unfortunately, Buckingham Palace were very hungry and had started to eat the stored honey. The cold weather really hit them hard. Fed them some sugar syrup so hopefully they will all be okay.

No varoa present and queens seen in both hives.

Honey Comb = Yummy

2010-08-27T03:22:00.000-07:00

This is honey still in the comb and therefore in its most natural state. It can't have been heat treated, filtered or added to. It may be a small square wooden frame of honey but these days it's more likely to be a square of comb cut out of a full size frame.

Cut comb is sold by weight and although it comes in plastic containers designated as 8oz or 12oz the actual weight depends on the thickness of the comb it was cut from.

Many people ask "how you are supposed to eat it?" . The answer is that some people just eat the lot, wax and honey. Others chew it and reject the wax that is left after all the honey is gone. I like to spread it on hot toast, let it melt in, and then eat it all. The choice is yours and the wax will not hurt you. Some people say eating the lot is good for Hay Fever since the outer wax has a lot of pollen embedded in it.

No-on is allowed to make medicinal claims but we feel that this is the best way to eat pure, unadulterated honey straight from the hive.

Ulting Honey

2010-08-24T14:58:00.001-07:00

Honey Tips

2010-08-21T09:27:00.001-07:00

Straining and Ripening

Clean up your honey by straining it to remove debris. Use either individual strainers on a bucket or tank or the strainers that fit into honey tanks. A double strainer with a coarse and fine second mesh is more efficient than a single strainer. A typical second mesh will allow all pollen through and inevitably some specks. By leaving the honey to settle in the tank for a day or so, not only do the air bubbles rise to the top but these specks settle out, leaving your honey ready for bottling and sale.

Finer meshes are available, e.g. the tough monafilament nylon micron strainers, but the slightest hint of granulation in the honey will block the mesh. Before using these, you may need to warm the honey. Two tips. If you are using a strainer on the tap of the extractor which is blocking, forget about straining at this point. Concentrate on getting the honey into buckets and straining it later, heating if necessary. Secondly, splash out if you can on stainless steel equipment.

Packaging for Honey - Trading Standards Guidelines

2010-08-21T09:19:00.001-07:00

Guidance notes for honey packers

Honey (England) Regulations 2003
Food Labelling Regulations 1996
Packaged Goods Regulations 2006

Application: For sales of honey to the ultimate consumer or to a catering establishment

General:

Honey which is prepacked should be labelled with the following:

· the name

· the name or trade name and address of the producer or packer, or of a seller within the EC

· the country or countries of origin

· any special storage conditions

· a 'best before' date

· a lot mark

· the weight

Name:

This should be the one that is prescribed by law. The product may only be called 'honey' if it complies with the prescribed compositional standards and has had no other ingredient added to it. The name must consist of or include one of the following descriptions:

· blossom or nectar honey

· honeydew honey

· comb honey

· chunk honey or cut comb in honey

· drained honey

· extracted honey

· pressed honey

· filtered honey

· baker’s honey

Note: In the case of 'blossom honey', 'nectar honey', 'honeydew honey', 'drained honey' and 'pressed honey', the name applied may be either the appropriate reserved description or simply 'honey'. Additional clarifying words may be applied to the name, e.g. 'clear', 'natural', etc, provided they do not mislead.

It is common practice to filter honey under pressure to remove unwanted matter, e.g. small pieces of comb, dead bees, etc, and it is acceptable to treat honey in this way without it being required to be labelled 'filtered honey'. However, where fine filters are used such that a significant amount of pollen is removed, e.g. where honey is finely filtered to improve the shelf life and clarity, the product must be described as 'filtered honey', and not simply 'honey'.

Where baker's honey and filtered honey are sold in bulk containers, the full product name must appear on both the container and on any accompanying trade documents.

Baker's honey sold in its own right as a food must be accompanied by the words 'intended for cooking only'. However, when used as an ingredient in a food, the reserved description need only be listed in the ingredients list if it has not been used in the name of the food, e.g. 'honey cake'.

Country or countries of origin:

Honey must be labelled with the country or countries in which the honey was harvested. Where the honey is a blend of honeys harvested from more than one country, as an alternative to listing the various countries of origin, one of the following statements may be used, as appropriate:

'Blend of EC honeys'
'Blend of non EC honeys'
'Blend of EC and non-EC honeys'

Such descriptions can also be tested by analysis.

If there is any reference to a particular plant or blossom (this can be pictures or words), the honey must have come wholly or mainly from that blossom or plant - i.e. the honey must be characterised by that blossom or plant.

If reference is made to a geographical origin (e.g. Mexican), the honey must come wholly from that country or place.

Baker's honey and filtered honey may not be labelled with additional information relating to its floral or vegetable origin; its regional or territorial or topographical origin; or its specific quality criteria.

Durability indication and storage conditions:

A durability indication in the form of a 'best before' date must be applied to most packaged foods. Honey which is intended to have a shelf life in excess of three months, is required to be marked with at least a month and a year, e.g. 'Best before end Oct 2010'. However, in order to be able to identify a particular batch of honey (see below), you may wish to also include the day, e.g. 'Best before: 30 Oct 2010'.

Storage conditions that need to be observed for the food to maintain its quality until the date shown must also be marked on the label.

Lot marking:

Each jar of honey should have a code on it that identifies it with a single batch. This could be all the honey which is packed in one day, for example. You can use a best before date (if it indicates at least a day and month), a number, or some other code. If you do not use a date, it may be best to put an 'L' in front of the code to make it clear that it is a lot mark. The lot mark can appear anywhere on the jar unless you are using the best before date as the lot mark.

Honey sold only from the premises on which it was packed does not need to be lot marked. However, it is advisable to lot mark all jars anyway, so that if there is a problem, the honey can be easily traced back to the batch from which it came.

General provisions:

Any information required to be given must appear either on the packaging; on a label attached to the packaging or on a label clearly visible through the packaging. The ticket or label must be easy to understand and indelible. Such information must not be hidden, obscured or interrupted by any other written or pictorial matter.

Where honey is sold loose or prepacked for direct sale, the labelling information may appear on a label, ticket or notice that is readily discernible to the intending purchaser.

Where honey is sold other than to the ultimate consumer, the required labelling information may be provided in an accompanying commercial document.

Weight marking:

Packed honey must show a weight marking in metric, and may show an imperial weight mark in addition to the compulsory metric marking. The metric indication must be more prominent, and for most packs must be at least 4mm high. The imperial marking must be no larger than the metric one. Note that the quantity shown should be the net weight, i.e. the weight of the honey without the jar, lid and label.

The weight marking, name of the honey and the best before date should be shown in the same field of vision.

Note individual portions of 25g or less are exempt from compulsory weight declarations.

Please see our leaflet 'Guidance notes on average quantity'.

Nutrition labelling:

There seems to be some confusion amongst packers as to whether or not this is required. Nutrition labelling is optional unless a claim is made, e.g. 'this honey is high in energy'. In this case, a nutrition statement must be on the labelling and should include, as a minimum, the amount of energy, protein, carbohydrate and fat in 100g of the honey. This can be calculated using analysis or using tables, but it maybe simpler not to make a claim in the first place.

Organic claims:

If you are marketing your honey as organic, please see our leaflet 'A guide for producers, processors and packers of organic products' which explains the extra legal controls which apply.

Voluntary labelling:

The British Importers and Packers Association (BHIPA) adhere to a voluntary labelling code whereby all honey on retail sale includes a warning statement that 'honey should not be given to infants under 12 months of age'. This is a precautionary measure against possible infant botulism which could potentially arise from the presence of 'Clostridium Botulinum' spores in honey. Although this is not a statutory requirement, the trading standards service supports this voluntary warning for infants under twelve months.

What are the consequences of non-compliance?

Failure to comply with these requirements is a criminal offence.
The maximum penalty on conviction is a fine of £5,000.

Please note:

This leaflet is not an authoritative interpretation of the law and is intended only for guidance. For further information, please contact your local trading standards service.

Last reviewed/updated: August 2010

Beat the drought, forget hosepipe bans and always have enough water for your vegetables and flowers!

2010-08-13T03:34:00.001-07:00

GROW 2

Following the success (and bronze medal) of the GROW system at the Chelsea Flower Show in 2005, WWUK have now responded to public demand by creating 'GROW2', a smaller version for individual households.

This 5 trough version measures 2m x 1m x 1m (high at the back) and sits neatly outside the kitchen window at the back of the house looking just as pretty as a raised garden. With a 'grey' water tank and a 'green' water tank both in the shade underneath there is always sufficient treated clean water for the garden and/or the toilets.

View from a kitchen window of GROW 2.

The 'grey water' is derived from the bath, shower and hand basins and requires separate plumbing down to ground floor level. There is a normal drain diverting the grey water to the gully which can be controlled by a simple valve if, for example, the GROW 2 filter needs to be cleaned. The GROW 2 system meets all current building regulations.

GROW 2 will be available in Spring 2007 in kit form and will cost in the region of £800 plus installation.

Be prepared for this summer's drought!

2010-08-09T05:05:00.001-07:00

The keeping of bees is like the direction of sunbeams.

Henry David Thoreau (1817-1862) American naturalist, poet and philosopher.

2010-07-12T13:20:00.001-07:00

Our first extraction of liquid gold!

2010-07-11T09:06:00.000-07:00

Uncapping

uncapping

connor helping with uncapping

Good frame of capped honey

the Extractor working

Honey in frame with dark pollen cels

First lot of honey from the cappings in the warmer

Frame with honey and pollen in

Cappings

looking at the cappings in the warmer

Thaine un-capping

three frames in the extractor

Passing the uncapped frame to go in the extractor

Four frames in extractor

uncapped frames in the extractor

Cappings in the warmer

Uncapped and going to the extractor

uncapping

Passing the uncapped frame for extracting

Connor doing some uncapping

Extracting

2010-07-11T08:56:00.001-07:00

Liquid Gold from the extractor

Thaine un-capping the honey

Inside the extractor - 3 out of 4 frames ready to spin

First ot

Un-capping

Extractor with frames in

Good frame

Old queen cell

2010-07-04T00:15:00.000-07:00

Queen larvea

2010-07-04T00:13:00.000-07:00

Virgin Queen

2010-07-04T00:12:00.000-07:00

Royal Jelly

2010-07-04T00:10:00.000-07:00

Bees and Neighbours

2010-06-24T12:02:00.000-07:00

Beekeeping is a wonderful hobby. Bees are interesting creatures, with a fascinating life. Unfortunately, not every one appreciates this and, unless care is taken in keeping bees and siting colonies, trouble can result.

Stings

The only fact about bees that most people seem to know is that they sting. The closer a person is to an active colony, the more likely they are to be stung. The possibility of non-beekeepers being stung is reduced if:

• bees are not kept in small gardens or close to houses;

• the bees kept are known to be docile;

• manipulation of colonies is performed whilst neighbours are at work;

• colonies are kept in sheltered apiaries behind naturally high barriers

Drinking Bees

Bees need to drink like any other creature. Non-beekeepers can view this harmless activity with alarm since bees often choose to drink from places like the edges of ornamental ponds. The beekeeper can help by providing water for his bees. The simplest way to do this is by standing a large plant pot full of peat in a reservoir of water. Bees will drink from the wet surface, especially if this arrangement stands in a sunny spot. Do not let it dry up. It cannot be emphasised too strongly that drinking bees are harmless.

Overflying

Bees normally fly about 5m above the ground but problems can occur from bees flying out from their hives and returning to them. In windy weather over open ground, bees fly very low because it is less effort. They only rise to fly over obstacles in their path. The beekeeper can help by sheltering the apiary site with hedges or shrubs. It also helps if hives can be faced away from neighbouring properties. In addition, the height of the boundary fence can be raised by allowing hedges to grow to about two metres in height. A temporary barrier can be formed from sparrow-proof netting which bees will not readily fly through.

Cleansing Flights

After winter confinement in the cluster, bees’ early flights on sunny spring days can result in anything in the vicinity of the hives being spotted with faeces. If this includes neighbours’ laundry or cars, then their resentment is understandable. This nuisance can be reduced by making sure that the bulk of the winter stores is well-ripened sugar syrup. Feeding should be finished by mid-September. High barriers round the garden will also help to keep the bees on cleansing flights circling near their hives.

Swarms

Neighbours will not necessarily welcome swarms onto their property. No beekeeper can guarantee preventing all swarms. However, the chance of swarms can be reduced to a very small percentage indeed.

You need:

• to keep all queens clipped;

• to have adequate spare equipment;

• to use a simple, effective method of swarm control (see BBKALeaflet)

• to make sure hives are not over-heated by the summer sun;

• to seek help from a really experienced beekeeper if required.

Numbers of Hives or Colonies

There have been cases brought to court where the beekeeper kept an enormous number of colonies in his garden. Sheer numbers of colonies can worsen all the problems touched on so far. It is impossible to give any definitive figure. Modern suburban gardens are not suitable at all. Larger gardens, depending on their size, could safely house up to six colonies. Gardens which could house more are few and far between.

Rights

Beekeepers have the right to keep bees. Their neighbours have the right to enjoy their property in peace. Badly kept and positioned colonies can be a nuisance. Unfortunately, what the neighbour might see as a nuisance is likely to be given more consideration in a court than what the beekeeper sees as an interesting characteristic in his bees. Bees harmlessly drinking water from a pond may well, therefore, be deemed a real nuisance, even if all the beekeepers called to give evidence state the opposite. Also, the fact that the bees were there before the complaining neighbour will hold little importance in a court of law.

Avoiding Confrontation

Any beekeepers confronted with an angry neighbour should not meet aggression with more aggression.

Try to talk the problem through and take some positive action to attempt to allay the problem. It could well help to talk through with your neighbours the intention to keep bees. Share some of your honey with them and always emphasise the pollinating value of bees to the environment.

If the neighbour is the sort of person who is constantly worried about the bees, wants to grow plants to ‘repel’ them or remove plants that ‘attract’ them, and is worried if the bees will join him when he breakfasts al fresco, then it is likely that beekeeping next door will never be a pleasant experience. It would be simpler to keep your bees in out-apiaries and avoid any problems.

If all else has Failed

Through membership of a local Beekeeping Association which is an area member of the BBKA, the beekeeper gains protection of a third party insurance policy. This provides coverage against all third-party claims arising from his beekeeping activities involving injury to persons or damage to property.

If the situation between the neighbour and the beekeeper deteriorates to the point of legal action, then, assuming he is a member of a qualifying Association, he must inform the BBKA Treasurer, at once. This is very important. Any delay could result in a loss of compensation under this policy. BBKA has a legal adviser who can give help on the law in this area, but any beekeeper threatened with legal action must engage the services of a solicitor. BBKA will not engage in legal action on behalf of a beekeeper. Remember, weigh up the situation carefully. Litigation is always expensive. It is much better to avoid it.

This leaflet is one in a series of Advisory Leaflets produced by the British Beekeepers’ Association. They cover specialist subjects to which beekeepers may need handy reference. Each leaflet has

been written by recognised authorities in the field and published under the copyright of the BBKA, unless otherwise acknowledged. Beekeepers are strongly advised to obtain more information from the wide range of books giving information on the topics mentioned in this leaflet. Associations are free to copy this leaflet for beekeepers. ©BBKA 2006 (3rd Edition)

Bees and Neighbours

2010-06-24T12:00:00.000-07:00

Beekeeping is a wonderful hobby. Bees are interesting creatures, with a fascinating life. Unfortunately, not every one appreciates this and, unless care is taken in keeping bees and siting colonies, trouble can result.

Stings

The only fact about bees that most people seem to know is that they sting. The closer a person is to an active colony, the more likely they are to be stung. The possibility of non-beekeepers being stung is reduced if:

• bees are not kept in small gardens or close to houses;

• the bees kept are known to be docile;

• manipulation of colonies is performed whilst neighbours are at work;

• colonies are kept in sheltered apiaries behind naturally high barriers

Drinking Bees

Bees need to drink like any other creature. Non-beekeepers can view this harmless activity with alarm since bees often choose to drink from places like the edges of ornamental ponds. The beekeeper can help by providing water for his bees. The simplest way to do this is by standing a large plant pot full of peat in a reservoir of water. Bees will drink from the wet surface, especially if this arrangement stands in a sunny spot. Do not let it dry up. It cannot be emphasised too strongly that drinking bees are harmless.

Overflying

Bees normally fly about 5m above the ground but problems can occur from bees flying out from their hives and returning to them. In windy weather over open ground, bees fly very low because it is less effort. They only rise to fly over obstacles in their path. The beekeeper can help by sheltering the apiary site with hedges or shrubs. It also helps if hives can be faced away from neighbouring properties. In addition, the height of the boundary fence can be raised by allowing hedges to grow to about two metres in height. A temporary barrier can be formed from sparrow-proof netting which bees will not readily fly through.

Cleansing Flights

After winter confinement in the cluster, bees’ early flights on sunny spring days can result in anything in the vicinity of the hives being spotted with faeces. If this includes neighbours’ laundry or cars, then their resentment is understandable. This nuisance can be reduced by making sure that the bulk of the winter stores is well-ripened sugar syrup. Feeding should be finished by mid-September. High barriers round the garden will also help to keep the bees on cleansing flights circling near their hives.

Swarms

Neighbours will not necessarily welcome swarms onto their property. No beekeeper can guarantee preventing all swarms. However, the chance of swarms can be reduced to a very small percentage indeed.

You need:

• to keep all queens clipped;

• to have adequate spare equipment;

• to use a simple, effective method of swarm control (see BBKALeaflet)

• to make sure hives are not over-heated by the summer sun;

• to seek help from a really experienced beekeeper if required.

Numbers of Hives or Colonies

There have been cases brought to court where the beekeeper kept an enormous number of colonies in his garden. Sheer numbers of colonies can worsen all the problems touched on so far. It is impossible to give any definitive figure. Modern suburban gardens are not suitable at all. Larger gardens, depending on their size, could safely house up to six colonies. Gardens which could house more are few and far between.

Rights

Beekeepers have the right to keep bees. Their neighbours have the right to enjoy their property in peace. Badly kept and positioned colonies can be a nuisance. Unfortunately, what the neighbour might see as a nuisance is likely to be given more consideration in a court than what the beekeeper sees as an interesting characteristic in his bees. Bees harmlessly drinking water from a pond may well, therefore, be deemed a real nuisance, even if all the beekeepers called to give evidence state the opposite. Also, the fact that the bees were there before the complaining neighbour will hold little importance in a court of law.

Avoiding Confrontation

Any beekeepers confronted with an angry neighbour should not meet aggression with more aggression.

Try to talk the problem through and take some positive action to attempt to allay the problem. It could well help to talk through with your neighbours the intention to keep bees. Share some of your honey with them and always emphasise the pollinating value of bees to the environment.

If the neighbour is the sort of person who is constantly worried about the bees, wants to grow plants to ‘repel’ them or remove plants that ‘attract’ them, and is worried if the bees will join him when he breakfasts al fresco, then it is likely that beekeeping next door will never be a pleasant experience. It would be simpler to keep your bees in out-apiaries and avoid any problems.

If all else has Failed

Through membership of a local Beekeeping Association which is an area member of the BBKA, the beekeeper gains protection of a third party insurance policy. This provides coverage against all third-party claims arising from his beekeeping activities involving injury to persons or damage to property.

If the situation between the neighbour and the beekeeper deteriorates to the point of legal action, then, assuming he is a member of a qualifying Association, he must inform the BBKA Treasurer, at once. This is very important. Any delay could result in a loss of compensation under this policy. BBKA has a legal adviser who can give help on the law in this area, but any beekeeper threatened with legal action must engage the services of a solicitor. BBKA will not engage in legal action on behalf of a beekeeper. Remember, weigh up the situation carefully. Litigation is always expensive. It is much better to avoid it.

This leaflet is one in a series of Advisory Leaflets produced by the British Beekeepers’ Association. They cover specialist subjects to which beekeepers may need handy reference. Each leaflet has
been written by recognised authorities in the field and published under the copyright of the BBKA, unless otherwise acknowledged. Beekeepers are strongly advised to obtain more information from the wide range of books giving information on the topics mentioned in this leaflet. Associations are free to copy this leaflet for beekeepers. ©BBKA 2006 (3rd Edition)

apimondia-sensorik-2003

2010-06-23T00:22:00.000-07:00

http://www.biavl.dk/images/stories/pdf/varroa-undersogelse2005.pdf

Carlie Mayes Sent from my iPod

Hives

2010-06-22T07:58:00.000-07:00

Hives handmade by Thomas Bickerdike

The Beehive Workshop

The Danish Tradition of changing all beeswax brood combs every year

2010-06-22T06:48:00.000-07:00

by David Ashton ©

This is a comment on the Danish Tradition of changing all beeswax brood combs in the hive every year. I have been prompted to write this after the article about the problem of remains of antibiotics, chemicals and medicines being found in honey imported into Denmark, but which are not found at all in Danish Honey. I intend pasting this article that I translated, at the bottom of this piece ( Danish Honey Retains its Quality ) you may already have read it. But I think you will understand the logic, scientific reasoning and practise, once you read both articles

But I am also using and translating from Danish to English, a paragraph from an article in the Danish beekeeping magazine ‘ Tidskrift for Biavl ‘ ( Journal of Beekeeping ) for February 2004, page 41 an article by Danish Beekeeper, Ejner Olsen.

Many of you who know some thing about Danish beekeeping, have expressed wonderment, as to why the Danish beekeepers as part of the legal requirement to prevent disease in the bees, and to preserve the hygiene and cleanliness of the honey as a pure food change their brood combs yearly. However in his article Ejner Olsen explains to reasoning and scientific logic of why Danes change every beeswax brood comb, each and every year.

The Brown Bees Inherited Characteristics

The German monk Brother Adam, who lived most of his life at Buckfast Abbey in England, worked most of his life with the genetic properties of bees. He travelled widely in Europe and Africa, and took bee brood back home with him. With this brood he tested the various races of bees for inherited bee diseases. Brother Adam made a chart of the inherited characteristics which actually did not cover very much space about 6 cm x 9 cm ( 2 ¼ “ x 3 ½ “ inches ) he carried this chart every were with him, and despite the fact it did not cover very much space it was in fact his life’s work which was written down here.

One of the conclusions that Brother Adam came to from this life’s work was that the brown bee ‘ Apis Mellifera Mellifera ‘ had extremely poor resistance against bee and brood diseases, and also had a propensity to swarm very often. Against which it had a top characteristic of + 6 for its long life, ability to fly in all conditions, resistance to weather, a good sense for orientating its self, and a very good sense of collecting together, and building new honey comb.

It is in fact very impressive that Brother Adam gave the Brown Bee a top character of ( + 6 ) on his own scale for eight characteristics. One of the explanations he gave for this was the wide spread of this race of honey bee.

One you consider that the brown bee has some extremely poor characteristics, and others which are at the very top of his range it is interesting to speculate as to why this is:

1)Why does the Brown bee swarm so much ?

2)Perhaps the answer to this question is that because most of Europe was once covered in forest, where bees made their homes in rotten trees, and later skep, and log beekeeping. These type of homes for the bees most probable stimulated the swarming nature, which in beekeeping skep, and log beekeeping period was thought to be an advantage that bees swarmed often !

3) Why then the very poor resistance to bee and brood disease’s ?

4) Perhaps the answer to this question is that in the thousands of years the brown bee Apis Mellifera Mellifera did not have the need to develop genes resistant against bee and brood disease. Because they had a great capacity to swarm, and build new comb, which in its self is a valuable protection against these diseases. By all the time building new clean combs in either hollow clean from bee disease trees, skeps or wooden logs they the brown bee were in a situation were they could “ Build them selves a new clean home “ . A factor which underlies the fact that in all those hundreds of thousands of years of bees living in the forest in trees, later in log bee hives and a skep. They were never troubled by bee diseases, and even the skep beekeeping literature mentions very little. It was first with the introduction by L.L. Langstroth in the U.S.A. in 1851 of the movable framed hive, that mention starts to be regularly made of foul brood diseases . and other bee diseases in literature.

A Relaxed attitude to Foul Brood disease .

Foul brood spores are often found in honey, and are often encapsulated in beeswax combs which bees build themselves, indeed bees have a certain resistance to these disease spores it is only when they build up too intolerant levels that disease moves in and takes over. As is well know with Danish beekeeping that by melting down the frames every year we find large concentration of foul brood spores, and other diseases which are destroyed in the beeswax melting refining and filtration process.

So taking the logic and scientific evidence of the above coupled with Brother Adams evidence it seems as if the Danish beekeeping policy of changing all combs on a yearly basis is not only a good strategy to overcome disease but is also very rational. So despite wide spread criticism of this method by beekeepers outside of Denmark. This policy of yearly comb changes since 1945, and renewal with clean foundation is now proving its worth, in an age when consumers, public health authorities, and trading standards are becoming more and more aware of the dangers that the wide spread use of antibiotics and chemicals used by food producers, and food processors, posses for the publics health. Coupled with the danger of bugs resistant to antibiotics , the problems with acid indigestion, and stomach upset, and asthma on the increase. It seems as if the quality and purity of Danish honey due to Danish beekeepers husbandry methods is some thing that beekeepers around the world could learn a lot from.

By David Ashton © using as source material ‘ Tidskrift for Biavl ‘ ( Journal of Beekeeping ) for February 2004, page 41 an article by Danish Beekeeper, Ejner Olsen

Danish Honey Retains its Quality

Translated by David Ashton from an Article by Benny Gade Journalist and Beekeeper

From www.honningbien.dk 24th February 2004

It is becoming more and more difficult to import honey into Denmark because of the sharpened demands by the Danish Trading Standards and Food Authority. Due to the demand that honey must not contain any remains of antibiotics. On the other hand it is not an problem for Danish honey to meet these demands, but it is beginning to become very difficult for foreign beekeepers to understand these demands of the Scandinavian market for honey.

This statement was made today by Knud Hvam of Jakobsen & Hvam, from Aulumgaard, Honey Farm, Denmark, who is Denmark’s largest buyer of honey. Besides buying Danish honey Jakobsen and Hvam import 3000 tons of honey for use in the Danish and Scandinavian market every year.

But the demands of the Scandinavian consumers and health authorities, has now become so sharp that it is almost impossible to import any foreign honey says Knud Hvam.

A couple of years ago we our selves enforced a ban on Chinese honey, followed by others around the world, due to the large concentration of remains of various medicines including antibiotics. We there for we started to import our honey from Argentina . Now however the problem of Argentina honey has become just as great as the problem we had with Chinese honey. The Argentina authorities have now stepped into the market realising that there is a problem, and have purchase large quantities of their own honey which they have destroyed due to the remains of medicine mostly antibiotics in their Argentina honey. The result of which is that Jakobsen & Hvam have not bought any Argentina honey this last year.

We are surviving on “ old honey “ which we have in our own store or buying in on the spot world market parcels of good quality honey says Knud Hvam.

The problem with remains of medicines, chemicals, and antibiotics in honey is first and foremost due to the foreign beekeepers methods they use to fight varroa mites, and both types of foul brood American and European, It has become not unusual for beekeepers to use a cocktail of antibiotics in countries outside of Denmark, to prevent diseases of various types in bees. These chemical, antibiotic or other medicines so called then remain in the honey. If these parcels of honey from outside of Denmark slip through the various countries veterinary food control system, then I can promise you the Danish food control authorities do not miss it. They pick it up off the super market, and shop, shelves, trace it back to its source and forbid its future sale in Scandinavia.

On the other hand there is no problem with Danish Honey. Which shows that Danish Beekeeping functions very effectively, due to Danish beekeepers not using antibiotics as preventative medicine, and also due to better hygiene in Danish beehives were all honey combs are changed and replaced every year by all Danish beekeepers.

There for it will become in future more and more attractive to produce Danish honey believes Knud Hvam. But he does not expect a price increase because of that. Danish honey needs to compete on the supermarket and shops shelves with marmalade, jam and other breakfast products, an increase in price will result in a reduction of sales of honey believes Knud Hvam.

© Translation David Ashton from article by Benny Gade.

Red Mason Bee

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Masonry bees, Mason Bees Red Mason Bee or Mortar bees are so called because they sometimes burrow into the mortar joints in brick walls.

There are a number of different species of bee that do this, but the most common has the scientific name of Osmia rufa.

Appearance and Life History

In appearance these bees are similiar to an ordinary honey bees, and share the same soft brown and yellow colouration, as opposed to the bright yellow and black of the wasp, which mortar bees are often confused with. This can sometimes be reddy in colour hence one of their common names.

However, all Mason bees are solitary and do not form the distinct social colonies that we associate so much with the honeybee and common wasp, although they may be found close to each other since they exploit suitable nesting sites.

The natural habitat of Mason bees is earth banks and soft exposed rocks into which the female bee burrows. She builds a series of tunnels or galleries in the spring in which to lay her eggs from which the new adults emerge in the early summer.

Only one such brood is raised each year.

Mason bees cannot tell the difference between soft rock and soft mortar, especially if it is old and perished. However, the gallery constructed by a single bee should not cause any significant damage, although if a brood is raised in one year spends the winter in the galleries, when spring comes they may start to enlarge the existing galleries or build new ones in the same area of the wall.

The only effective way of preventing damage is to repoint areas of soft and perished mortar as the bees can only burrow into comparatively weak materials. The joints should be raked out to a depth of 15mm (0.58in), and re-pointed with a mortar that is not too strong for the bricks, but hard enough to discourage the bees.

This work is best done in late summer, after the bees have ceased their activities but before the possibility of frost damage.

Avoid the spring as costly special insecticide treatments are needed to stop damage occurring to the new mortar before it hardens properly and it should be emphasised that spraying or injecting insecticides do not have any lasting effect, and are only recommended in those rare cases where bricks or stonework have been entered.

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Red Tailed Bumble Bee

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Bombus lapidarius, Red tailed Bumble Bee - this beautiful bee is part of the "Bumble" Bee family.

Commonly seen in gardens and hedgerows, the red-tailed bumble bee often nests under stones or slabs.

This species is unlikely to sting unless its nest is endangered. However, red-tailed bumble bees will often fly menacingly around the heads of intruders, in an attempt to prevent damage to their nests.

Only the young fertilised queen survives the winter, having hibernated in a protected place such as in a hole or under moss. She emerges in spring and starts up her own colony or takes over an existing one. The queen makes pots of wax and pollen into which the first eggs are laid. After about three weeks, the first infertile female workers emerge and take over the nectar and pollen gathering and cell building, while the queen concentrates on egg laying.

The larvae are reared on pollen and nectar.

Male bees appear in summer and towards the end of the season both male and female bumble bees fly out and mate. The males are not allowed to re-enter the nest after mating and soon die. The fertilised queen starts searching for a safe place to hibernate but both the workers and the old queen die with the first frosts or spell of cold weather.

Bumblebees are now much less common in the countryside and gardens are an important habitat for these species, where they reward us by pollinating plants such as apple trees.

You can encourage them by making artificial nest boxes.

Lie a large plastic plant pot on its side.
Line the inside with chicken wire, and then inside this place a layer of capoc - upholsterers' cotton. Don't use artificial fibre as bees get tangled up in it.
Fill the centre of the nest with hay and place an inverted plant-pot base over the top of the plant pot, securing it in place with wires fed through holes drilled in the side.
Finally, drill a hole about 2 centimetres wide into the centre of the plant-pot base and insert a short length of hollow pipe - which becomes the entrance hole.
Place the nest in a sunny border amongst vegetation and wait for the bees to find it.

If you have white clover in the lawn, give it a flowery break from mowing in the summer - this bee loves clover flowers.

Interesting fact:

Bombus lapidarius .....................lapidarius comes from the Latin meaning stone therefore common names include:

Stone bumble bee (it commonly nests under stones)
Red tailed bee (it is one of the bees that has an orangey red tail)
Large red-tailed bumblebee

HERE'S WHERE THIS LOVELY BEE FITS INTO THE FIVE KINGDOMS

Kingdom Animalia This contains all the species of animals.
Phylum Arthropoda or Uniramia Animals without backbones, but with jointed legs.
Class Insecta or Hexapoda Insects, as the name hexapoda suggests, animals that have six legs, at least most of the adults have.
Order Hymenoptera Bees, wasps, ants and sawflies.
Superfamily Apoidea Bees and some wasps.
Family Apidae Bees.
Genus Bombus Bumblebees.

Emailing: BY THE RIVER AT ULTING

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